Accra for Beginners
As Ghanaians say: Akwaaba! These might be the first words you will hear when arriving in Ghana.
Akwaaba means welcome in Twi, one out of many languages spoken in Ghana.
Therefore allow me to say: Akwaaba to my first blog post of my miniseries on the ultimate guide to Ghana. Since Accra will be your first stop, my first chapter will be concentrating on some of the basics you need to know when planning your trip.
Being Ghanaian myself made it very tricky for me to narrow down my topics, since there are so many beautiful places I love. Nevertheless, let me start by giving you a first insight on the basics. These basics will mainly be useful for travellers who have never been to Accra, Ghana before.
Ghana is a country located along the Gulf of Guinea and the Atlantic Ocean, in the sub region of West Africa. It’s vibrant, rich in culture and full of history. For many people Ghana is also referred to as West Africa for beginners. And why wouldn’t it be? Ghana is a very peaceful country that defines itself by its stable democracy and fast-paced development.
How to get there:
Airlines that fly to Kotoka International Airport include Brussels, TAP, Turkish Airlines, Delta, British Airways and Emirates among others. To enter Ghana you are obliged to hold a Visa, which can easily be obtained at the Ghanaian embassy of the respected country you live in. The application such as the payment process is mostly done online.
MUST KNOW: ALL VISITORS ENTERING GHANA MUST HOLD A YELLOW FEVER VACCINATION CERTIFICATE BY LAW.
SAVE THIS ON PINTEREST TO READ IT LATER
Best time to Travel
Due to the lower humidity most people prefer travelling to Ghana during the dry season (which is October to April). The average daily temperatures range from 30 degree to 24 degree. The rainy season usually begins around summer.
Many also travel during the Christmas Holidays, however from December to March it can get very foggy due to the Harmattan (so called dry season).
I personally prefer the weather to be sunny with clear skies. Note that clear visibility is something you won’t have when traveling during Harmattan. So I guess in the end, it really depends on your personal preference.
8 important facts
1. Ghanaians have an international reputation for being friendly and helpful. If you have a fair skin complexion, Ghanaians might refer to you as “Obroni” which is a term used for a white person. Please note that this is not an expression intended to cause offence.
2. You have found yourself a friend when you hear someone calling you “Chale”. Ghanaians greet and address friends as “Chale”. You can compare it to someone saying “hey buddy”
3. Pidgin is an English-based creole language that is primarily spoken in Ghana. However English is the official language. Most Ghanaians grow up speaking local dialects; there are about 80 indigenous languages.
4. The phrase “You are invited” is used when a person consuming food invites another person to join them. The phrase is rarely taken literally. However, get ready to share if someone does join you because after all Ghanaians are very eager to share what they have with others.
5. Do not drink the water from the tap! You can purchase bottled water from any convenience store as well as hawkers on the street.
6. The decision to take malaria medication is totally up to you, I usually advise my friends not to take them as they totally drain your body. Regardless of your decision - bringing a good mosquito repellent with you is essential.
7. You’ll find several ATM machines in Ghana, therefore getting cash will not be an issue. ATM`s only give out local currency. You may want to check with your bank at home to see if it has an affiliated bank in Ghana to cut down charges.
8. A ban on playing loud music is held once a month on the shorelines and major parts of Accra. This is linked to the sea goddess ” Maame Water” and taken very serious by the Ga people . Another way of showing respect to Maame Water is by not entering the beaches on Tuesdays.
IMPORTANT HINT: ALWAYS EXTEND YOUR RIGHT HAND FOR A HAND SHAKE. KEEP THE LEFT HAND AWAY FROM GREETING, FOOD OR RECEIVING ANYTHING FROM SOMEONE ELSE.
Where to stay
Accommodations and Hotel facilities that have European standards are very expensive and range from 150 to 250 USD per night.
However, there are a few more affordable accommodations that are quite decent and go for just 20 USD a night such as Kokrobite Gardens . If you don’t mind staying in a Hostel, Somewhere Nice offers double rooms starting from 50 USD a night and is a good alternative to a Hotel.
These kinds of places draw a younger crowd. Located close to the beach, Kokrobite Garden also attracts surf lovers.
Do have a look at Airbnb’s for cheaper alternatives as well.
If you decide to go in for a less expensive accommodation, you should probably get familiar with the word “dumsor”, as power cuts can occur at any time. The most affordable accommodations might not have a backup generator so you might experience power cuts more often.
Kindly note, that since I always stay in our family home when spending time in Accra, I have never spent a night at any of these facilities. Therefore I can solely comment on using their outdoor facilities.
At Kokrobite Gardens the pool area is beautifully tucked away in-between a garden, which is maintained with a lot of love and charm. If you are keen on Italian food you will be lucky to have a few options of Pizza on their menu, as the owner is an Italian expat.
Getting Around
Renting a car in Ghana is very expensive due to the added insurance fee.
Therefore I would recommend to taking either a Taxi or an Uber.
Make sure when taking a taxi to always negotiate the price before you get in, whereas when taking an Uber the price is set beforehand but bear in mind that prices can still vary depending on the current traffic situation.
If you are eager to experience how the locals get around in Accra and you don’t mind squeezing in with others, you can take a so called “Tro- Tro“ (local busses).
What to do
There are endless things to do during your visit to Accra. The capital is characterized by its busy streets, vibrant art scene and colourful markets. Not to forget, Accra has one of the best street food scenes out there.
Explore the city
Ghana became independent from the United Kingdom on March 6th 1957, therefore a must historical visit is the independence avenue as well as the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park and Mausoleum.
1. Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park & Mausoleum
Kwame Nkrumah was the first President of Ghana and led Ghana to independence from Britain.
When visiting the memorial Park you can take a guided tour to learn more about his life and vision he had for Ghana and Africa.
There is a Museum located behind the Mausoleum that displays his personal items such as clothes, furniture and gifts he received during his time in office.
What I found most impressive was seeing all the old photographs taken over the years that are still available today.
GOOD TO KNOW: it is not permitted to take any photos when entering the Museum.
2. Independence Avenue (Black Star Square)
One of the most visited sights in Accra is the Independence Square (mostly known as the “Black Star Square”). It’s one of the most popular tourist attractions in Ghana and a must visit on your trip.
The Independence Square is the second largest City Square in the world and was built in 1961.
Ghana's yearly Independence Day parades as well as other major national public festivals tend to be celebrated here.
3. Jamestown
If you want to experience the oldest district in the city of Accra, I would advise you to visit Jamestown. Alongside the shores you will find numerous fishing boats that will make it possible for you to catch a glimpse of the fisherman at work.
Another must see in the district of Jamestown is the lighthouse.
If you are interested in boxing, check out the Bukom boxing gym. Bukom Square is a place, associated with the “Ga” people and has produced some of the best African boxers on record.
Jamestown is also known to host some of Accra’s most vibrant festivals such as the yearly “Chale Wote Festival”.
During the Festival you will get to see an alternative platform that brings art, music, dance and performance out into the streets of Accra. If you happen to be in Ghana around August make sure to check it out.
TRAVEL TIP: ONE OF THE MOST EXCITING FESTIVALS IN ACCRA IS WITHOUT A DOUBT THE AFROCHELLA FESTIVAL. IF YOU HAPPEN TO BOOK YOUR TRIP END OF DECEMBER MAKE SURE TO GET TICKETS ASAP THEY SELL OUT FAST!
4. Oxford Street
Yes you read correctly, Oxford Street. The name might remind you of the famous shopping street in London and in some ways it does have similarities. If you think about shopping, coffee shops and nightlife you won’t be disappointed coming to this buzzing area, whether day or night, there is always something happening on Accra’s Oxford Street.
5. Markets
I love exploring Markets, whenever I come back home to Ghana! If you love African Art and you can’t wait to buy beautiful souvenirs, you must visit the Art Centre in Accra.
From beautiful jewellery to African wax print and endless choices on woven baskets - one of my favourite items to grab whenever I am there - the Art centre has something to offer for everyone.
If you are up for all the hustle and bustle and you would like to experience one of the most authentic markets in Accra, you should definitely visit the famous Makola Market. Fruits, clothes, jewellery, electronics…the list could go on forever, on this market you will literally find anything you can think of.
This overwhelming market is what I would call organized chaos. But I can assure you that you will find everything you are looking for right here.
INSIDER TIP: FOR THE BEST CAKE, QUICHE AND WHOLEMEAL BREADS LOOK OUT FOR MIMI (ROOTS&SOUL CATERING) AT THE DU BOIS MARKET. THE MARKET IS HELD EVERY FIRST SATURDAY OF THE MONTH.
6. Where to cool off
Accra can get very hot especially in the afternoon. So make sure to balance your stay by relaxing at the pool. The beach isn’t the cleanest in Accra therefore I would advise you to use the pool area of one of the Hotels mentioned below
One of my favourite places to cool off is the Labadi Beach Hotel. You can use their pool and other facilities for a fee of approximately 80 Ghana Cedis (approximately 14 USD). In addition the Labadi Beach Hotel has its own beach area.
If you feel like getting pampered, you should check out the Labadi Beach Spa. The Spa area is located behind the pool and offers a good variety of massages.
Another one of my favourite places to go for a quick dip is the La Villa Boutique Hotel. The Hotel is conveniently located in Osu near the Oxford street.
It always amazes me to see how they managed to create a little Oasis in the centre of one of the busiest streets of Accra. Plan your day in the area of Osu by heading to the La Villa Boutique Hotel in the morning and continuing on a shopping spree at the Oxford Street in the afternoon.
TIP: THE MÖVENPICK HOTEL ALSO HAS A BEAUTIFUL POOL AREA WITH ONE OF THE BIGGEST POOLS IN ACCRA, MAKING IT RELAXING EVEN WHEN IT’S BUSY. THE LOCATION OF THE MÖVENPICK HOTEL IS IDEAL, HENCE MAKING IT PERFECT FOR A SPONTANEOUS SWIM DURING YOUR DAY.
7. Beaches close to Accra
Kokrobite is a town known for traditional sea fishing and its beaches. It is a popular destination for tourists, backpackers and international volunteers looking for a getaway from the buzzing capital city of Accra.
Due to the fact that waste and uncollected plastics end up in streams and the ocean, I rarely swim in beaches close to Accra. I prefer to watch the fisherman and their beautiful wooden boats whenever I visit Kokrobite. When I do feel like swimming, I visit Kokrobite Gardens to use their pool facility, which is just a five minute walk from the shore.
One of the beaches close to Accra that, in my opinion, has been maintained the best is Bojo Beach. Whenever I visited, the beach was kept clean and the flags indicating where it’s safe to swim were put up.
You are not allowed to take your own food and drinks but you’ll find a beach bar on the premise that serves drinks as well as food.
If you like the vibe of a beach and pool club make sure to visit Sandbox. Their interior decor is kept simple with wooden elements and ochre coloured stone walls.
Sandbox should also not be missed when they are having events.
where to shop
The creative scene in Ghana is thriving and there are lots of talented people creating beautiful things from beauty products to handmade jewellery and upcoming fashion labels.
One of many to visit is The Shop Accra. Whenever I’m looking for a gift to take back home for a friend or a little goodie for myself, I’ll most likely find it at the Shop Accra.
If you are a fashion lover and you wish to have a look at the work of some of the latest Ghanaian designers head straight to Elle Lokko.
Both Shops are located in the same area. Therefore you can easily combine checking out both shops within a couple of hours.
TIP: ANOTHER SHOP CALLED WILD GECKO OFFERS A WIDE VARIETY OF HANDCRAFTS. SHOULD YOU RUN OUT OF TIME, NO NEED TO WORRY AS THEY ALSO HAVE A LITTLE SHOP AT THE AIRPORT DEPARTURES TERMINAL. SO MAKE SURE TO SAVE TIME BEFORE BOARDING YOUR FLIGHT BACK HOME.
Best coffee shops
Since I love everything that focuses on interior decor, I always make sure to find that special place that has a combination of both: good food and interior design with a lot of charm and character.
One of my favourite places to have a cup of coffee or lunch is Baa & Bean.
The atmosphere of Baa & Bean is clearly what makes this place extra special. You can choose one of their many board games and enjoy your meal. Who wouldn’t want to play a round of UNO with their friends and loved ones while sipping on some drinks.
TIP: ORDER THE VEGETARIAN MUSHROOM KEBAB WITH FRIED RICE OR FRIED YAM CHIPS, SO DELICIOUS! .
The owner of this lovely café runs a similar one, just as beautiful as the Baa & Bean.
Unfortunately her second café is not open to the public. Want to know where the café is located and how I got in? For all these hints, tips and tricks make sure to sign up for my free newsletter to receive an Insider guide containing the exact locations of my favourite café’s, restaurants bars and clubs.
Food Culture
This section is the hardest yet easiest to write about. To narrow down the must try dishes are definitely tough because I grew up eating and loving all of them.
First of all make sure to drink a fresh coconut as soon as you touch down. Coconuts are available on every corner and perfect to keep you hydrated in the heat, plus they are delicious!
You definitely can’t leave Ghana without trying traditional Ghanaian dishes. Our food culture is known for its spicy, tomato based and carbohydrates heavy dishes. If it’s your first time visiting and you usually don’t eat a lot of spicy food back home, I recommend you to taste local dishes in restaurants such as Chez Clarisse, your belly will thank you for it.
However, there are so many dishes where in my opinion restaurants can’t keep up with the quality and taste of street food.
Some things just taste better from a street vendor that you’ve known for several years. Moreover you end up spending less money on the same meals that you would get in restaurants for far more.
For those familiar with West African cuisine surely know about the ongoing battle between West Africans when it comes to one of our national dishes: Jollof Rice.
Without being bias, to me - Ghanaian Jollof rice always wins the battle.
As you can probably already guess from the beginning of this section, there are numerous dishes that belong on this list. So if you wish to hear more about Ghanaian food and you don’t want to think twice about where to eat next, sign up for my newsletter now to receive an Insider guide containing must try local dishes from the tiniest street food vendor up to my favourite restaurants in Accra.
I hope this first part of my Ghana series has left you wanting to read more!